DEVELOPMENT OF PUPPIES

During the first few weeks of life, puppies and kittens should nurse at least four to six times per day. Infrequent or weak nursing often signifies chilling, illness, or congenital problems and should be attended to immediately by a knowledgeable breeder or veterinarian. The two primary activities of all newborns are eating and sleeping. The eyes of puppies and kittens open between 10 and 16 days and their ears begin to function between 15 and 17 days after birth. Normal body temperature for puppies is 94 degrees Fahrenheit to 97 degrees Fahrenheit for the first two weeks of life. Normal kitten temperature during this time is about 95 degrees Fahrenheit. By 4 to 5 weeks of age, body temperatures have reached the normal adult temperature in both species (approximately 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit).

Because puppies and kittens have no shivering reflex for the first 6 days of life, an external heat source is necessary. The dam is the best source for this warmth. After 6 days, the puppies and kittens are able to shiver, but they are still very susceptible to chilling. Keeping the environment warm and free from drafts is of utmost importance during the first few weeks of life to prevent hypothermia. It is recommended that the environmental temperature be kept at 70 degrees Fahrenheit during this period, assuming the dam is providing an adequate amount of warmth and protection to the newborns.

Newborns should be weighed daily during the first 2 weeks and then every 3 to 4 days until weaning. A helpful guideline is for puppies to gain between 1 and 2 grams (g) per day for every pound of anticipated adult weight for the first 3 to 4 weeks of life. For example, if the anticipated adult weight of a dog is 25 pounds (lbs), the puppy should be gaining between 25 and 50 g/day (0.9 to 1.8 oz). Kittens usually weigh between 90 to 110 g at birth and should gain between 50 and 100 g (1.8 to 3.5 oz) per week until they are 5 to 6 months of age.

Although there is limited information available concerning milk intake in nursing puppies and kittens, one study reported that Beagle puppies consume between 160 and 175 g of milk per day. Naturally, puppies of larger breeds are expected to consume a greater volume of milk, with smaller breeds and kittens consuming less volume. Similarly, the volume of milk that a bitch produces varies with her size. German Shepherds produce about 900 g of milk per day in early lactation, with increases to a level of up to 1700 g/day during peak lactation. In contrast, a much smaller breed, the Dachshund, produces between 100 and 180 g/day in early lactation.

Other influences upon the volume of milk produced are litter size, age at which supplemental food is introduced, and age of weaning. In healthy puppies and kittens, the dam's milk supports normal growth until puppies and kittens are approximately 4 weeks old. Supplemental feeding with commercial milk replacer should only be necessary with unusually large litters. After 4 weeks, milk alone no longer provides adequate calories or nutrients for continued normal development. At approximately the same time, puppies and kittens become increasingly interested in their environment and begin to spend more time awake and playing with each other. The time at which the dam's milk is no longer solely able to meet the nutrient needs of the offspring corresponds to the time at which the young are becoming more interested in trying new foods.

Rich Masters: Source: Virtual Veterinary

How To Crate Train Your Chihuahua Puppy

Teaching your Chihuahua puppy to go inside his crate, and enjoy being in there, is called crate training. Crate training gets your puppy comfortable with his crate so that he will happily enter it and spend time in it when you need him to. Such as when you're housebreaking him or when you need to take him in the car.

Are Crates Cruel?

Dogs like small, enclosed areas. It gives them as sense of security and they tend to find small spaces comfortable. You will find that almost all Chihuahua puppies will love to sleep in their crate and will even go inside it during the day to rest or to chew on a bone. Especially if you encourage them. The main advantage of crates is that they make housebreaking a lot easier. A puppy will not eliminate where he sleeps (in his den) so crates are used during housebreaking to stop the puppy from eliminating in the home. But you will find that most all puppies love their crate so much they will use if for the rest of their lives, even when housebroken.

A crate is NOT meant to be a place where you can lock your puppy up for hours on end. If you're going to do this and not spend any time with your pup, yes it is cruel, and why do you even own a dog?! You should never associate any negativity with the crate, and being locked up in the crate for hours certainly will not be enjoyable for him so if you use a crate like that, then yes, it's cruel.

But if you're a loving dog owner, and you spend time with your Chihuahua puppy every day, loving him, caring for him, playing with him, petting him and walking him, then putting him in his crate for a few hours is not a cruel thing to do. He is not being put in their for punishment, and if you crate train him correctly, he won't see it as such. (By the way, you should never put your Chihuahua in his crate as punishment or he wont want to spend time in it). Most Chihuahua puppies will not mind being crated for short periods of time. And when you think about it, we put our human babies into crates too, we call these crates... playpens.

How to: Crate Training Your Chihuahua Pup

Put the crate in the middle of the room and place some toys and a treat in it. Always leave some toys in the crate so he can play with them. Leave the door open and allow your puppy to walk in and out as he pleases as he explores the crate. When he walks in, say "Crate", to teach him that the word "Crate" means that you want him to go to his crate.

After he's had a good look around the crate, place a another treat inside and let him go in. Close the door gently, leave it closed for a few seconds, and then reopen it. Repeat this a few times. Keep practicing by leaving the door closed for longer periods of time. Leave it closed for 1 minute, than 5 minutes, than 10 minutes. Then leave the door closed for half and hour. Then one hour. Make sure you are home the whole time while you are crate training him. If the crate is a plastic one, have the door facing you so that wherever you are in the home he can see you.

If he cries when he is in the crate don't let him out. If you let him out he will then learn to cry when you put him in his crate, and he will always do it. However, he may be growling or barking because he wants to go outside to eliminate, so keep this in mind. It's best if he goes to the toilet beforehand so you know this isn't the case.

How long can you leave him in his crate? A one month old puppy can be in his crate for 1 hour. A two month old puppy can spend 3 hours in his crate. And a 3 to 6 month old puppy can stay there for 4 hours. A 6 month old, or older, puppy can be in his crate for up to 8 hours, but no longer.

Remember, you should not overuse the crate. It is an invaluable tool for housebreaking your puppy, but it's not a substitute for companionship with your best friend.

How To Get Your Dog To Listen To You

So what is the problem you are having with pooch? Is your dog not behaving like the angel you thought it would? There could be any number of reasons as to why the animal is not properly behaving, but one of the most important reasons is the reason of listening. Do you actually listen to what your dog is trying to tell you?

If your dog is not ready to do anything and is lazy, it is not going to obey your commands. It is just as simple as that. Now on the other hand, if you can get your dog excited to start listening, you will have one of the most obedient dogs on the planet. You must make the dog excited to want to learn and want to please you. Only then will you have the full attention of the animal.

So what is one to do? Well, without getting into too much detail, you just have to keep things simple and to the point. Animals do not have to learn by repetition, although I would strongly suggest you do this. How do you practice getting your dog motivated? Come up with a routine that you can do on a daily basis for about a week or so, that will not make your dog distracted.

For example, go to a quiet room and with a dog treat, begin your training. When you can get the dog to focus its attention on you and on the treat, you are winning the battle here. You must always make the dog want to please you and never forget to reward it for the awesome behavior it displays, the good behavior that is. Teaching your dog to sit and then giving it a treat, will let the dog know that you are happy with what it has just accomplished.

Taking these simple things into consideration, you will go a long way in helping your dog understand that when it comes time to pay attention, it better do so. Why would it want to disobey you anyways? It really wants that treat. So with treat, practice, and patience, you will see an amazing change in the way your dog behaves.

You have to keep in mind that a treat is a reward with your dog. Dogs love rewards just like we do. So be generous and be kind when handing out the reward for good behavior. Stay positive in your teaching and never be negative about it. Negativity will only hurt the process. Stay sharp and good luck.

by: Zane Madisson

Chihuahua Chewing and Biting

CHEWING

Dogs chew for many reasons. Puppies explore with their mouths. Everything and anything will go in. When they begin teething, chewing eases discomfort and helps puppy teeth work their way out. Adults chew for fun, to alleviate boredom, because it feels good. Chewing is natural and to be expected. Your job it to teach your dog to chew only appropriate items.

Make certain you use items approved for dog use. Make certain the items you give your puppy or dog to chew are sturdy and will not be ingested rapidly. Rawhide flips and chips, cow/pigs ears (I give these occasionally as treats but not as regular chews), latex toys (the cute squeaky newspapers and such) are not the best choices. They can be eaten fast, offer no nutritional value and do not give a long lasting, satisfying chew. Some squeaky toys have squeakers that may pull out and choke a puppy. Some dogs are fine with the rolled rawhide bones (also called knotted bones) and retriever rolls (rawhide rolled into rolls with no knots at the end). It all depends on how aggressively your dog chews. Old shoes, socks, old stuffed animals are also a bad choice. Your dog will not know the difference between your $180 running shoes and that old tennis shoe you gave him. Children's toys will not hold up to a vigorous chewer. Plus, button eyes and noses can be eaten and cause choking or obstruction. I keep all my dog toys in a specific box. The dogs learn that if something is in the box or came from the box it may be played with.

I use pressed rawhide bones (the rawhide is compressed under high pressure into a sturdy bone), the sterilized bones made for dogs (watch Puppy, I have one dog that can break off chunks of these bones so I never let him have one unattended) and rope toys. I also use the fleece chew men (other shapes available) made specifically for dogs. Know your dog and watch how he reacts to various chew toys. Should he shatter a bone or shred a fleece toy, you may wish to change to a different chew or try a different bone or fleece toy. Sometimes, there may be a weakness you did not see. Not every toy is safe for every dog! Choose toys appropriately sized for your dog. I would never think of using a four-inch bone with my Australian Shepherd-Newfoundland cross. It is just too small and he could choke. However, that giant, four-foot rawhide bone may dwarf my Sheltie's mouth!

Get a variety of toys and rotate every day or two so there are always "new" toys out. This way, Puppy has a variety of toys and you do not have to buy dozens of toys to keep Puppy entertained.

Should you see Puppy chewing something inappropriate, use a loud, firm, growly "NO! LEAVE IT!" and take the item away. Now IMMEDIATELY get a good chew and encourage Puppy to take it. Once he does praise lavishly. Remember, you must catch Puppy in the act so the correction will be effective. A good thing to have on hand is one of the no chewing products. There are a variety of sprays and ointments to deter chewing. Find one your puppy really hates and spray items if necessary. Do not spray it directly into Puppy's mouth. That is cruel. Follow the directions on the product.

Teaching appropriate items to chew can save a life. Puppies will chew electrical cords, bottles of poison, plants, objects that can cause intestinal obstructions. They have to learn what is good and bad. The safest things are prevention. Keep poisons out of reach. Hide cords (some home improvement places even carry cord cover as do places that sell baby proofing items) and check to see if your plants are nontoxic. Many garden centers have lists of toxic plants. Basically, puppy-proof (and doggy-proof) as if you had a precocious
toddler around! It is far better to prevent an incident than to treat one!

Should you think Puppy ingested a poison or ate something that could either cause a blockage or intestinal damage (pins, needles, nails, nylons, fishing line, coins, rocks, antifreeze, household cleaners, plants, etc.) call your vet immediately.

PUPPY BITING

It is never a good idea to let Puppy play with your hands or feet - no matter how cute it seems. This teaches Puppy it is OK to bite skin. Even though tiny puppies playing tug-of-war with your big finger is cute, it is teaching a very bad habit! Never let a puppy do something once that you do not want him to repeat. It is far easier to prevent bad habits from developing that it is to retrain an older puppy or adult dog. Here are two techniques to teach puppy not bite. Technique #1 is less physical and I recommend it first. It may take a few days or so for puppy to catch on. Technique #2 involves physically stopping puppy. Some puppies (or dogs) may actually perceive this as a challenge to try again so I do not
recommend it is as much.

Technique #1 - yelp and walk away:

Puppies are very social creatures and refusing to engage in play can be an effective training technique. As soon as puppy starts to bite or nip, give a loud, yelping OUCH!!! Glare at the pup, get up and move away. After a minute or so, get a toy and return to puppy. Encourage the puppy to play with the toy. If he goes for you with a nip, repeat yelping and walking away.

Technique #2 - shake can:

If puppy does not respond to a verbal command only, try a shake can. Get an empty and clean soda can and place about 10 pennies in it. Tape the mouth shut. When your pup starts to nip, give the verbal command and at the same time give the can a good shake or drop it next to puppy (not on him please). This will help reinforce the verbal command. As soon as he stops, praise and give him a good toy to chew.

Technique #3 - shake down:

If Techniques 1 and 2 fail, then try this. I am not as fond of it as it involves physically grabbing the pup for reinforcing the "No Bite!". Start with a loud yelping OUCH; at the same time as you grasp the loose skin on puppy's neck. Give a firm scruff but not a shake and firmly say "NO BITE!" Do not pull puppy up and away, just scruff him. Release puppy and get him involved with a good toy. After a while, stop the scruff and just use the verbal.

Play Initiated Nipping

Certain games encourage biting and should be avoided when working on "No Bite": tug-of-war (my dogs are not allowed to play this with humans until they are well aware of the "pack hierarchy" and will release the toy when told to.); chase and tackle games; and other games where you actively encourage the puppy to bite a person. Dangling treats and encouraging a puppy to jump for then can encourage snapping for food as well as injure growing joints. If you play tug-of-war make certain YOU start the game and YOU stop it. If puppy brings you a toy and encourages you to play, reverse the rules (see NILIF below).

Nothing in Life is Free:

It is also a good idea to get your puppy used to working for things - even play time. Before you feed puppy, have him sit and then feed. Do the same before leashing up for a walk. If the puppy brings a toy and asks you to play, turn tables and do a bit of training then play. Puppy learns that if he listens and obeys and does something, there will be a reward. This also helps establish humans as higher in the pack order.

Should your dog continue to bite and not respond or if the biting is accompanied with aggression, growling or anything you do not like, contact a behaviorist. Also, have your dog examined by a vet. There could be an underlying factor for the biting. A dog that is sore or not feeling well may bite. It is his way of saying something is not right. Also, a poorly socialized or scared dog is more prone to bite, as is a startled one. Teach your children NEVER EVER touch a dog, even one they know, without the owner's permission. Teach them never to handle a stray or loose animal, even if they know it. Children should contact a grown-up instead. Teach children not to tease or hurt dogs. Even the most tolerant dog can be pushed past his limit and retaliate. Even if the children are plainly at fault, it will be the dog that suffers. Prevention is the key.

Chihuahua puppy training tips

Why house training your chihuahua puppy is so important? To make your life easier! When your dog finds out he is your master, instead of the opposite, you are in big trouble because your chihuahua puppy will do whatever he wants, whenever he wants. Chihuahua puppy training tips become handy in this situation because it will help you to teach your puppy proper behaviour and it will put you in the right position.

A few general chihuahua puppy training tips

1. If you have kids, teach them how to behave with the new chihuahua puppy (and with any other dog for that matter). Kids need to know how to approach a puppy, slowly, letting the puppy smell them. If you don't teach them that, they might get bitten by the puppy which can lead to them being scared of dog for a very long time.

2. Give them toys to chew instead of your shoes or other personal items. This way, your chihuahua puppy will learn what's his and what is not, which should help you save a lot of shoes! A good cord is great to keep your chihuahua puppy teeth clean. The favourite toy of my cocker spaniel is the Kong. I make him homemade dog biscuits that I put in the Kong and he plays with it a lot. There is a tiny version of the Kong that can be a great toy for your chihuahua.

3. Teach the basic commands like sit and stay using treats and a gentle voice when your chihuahua puppy does it right.

Leash training your chihuahua puppy

What you need : A leash (dahhhh!) and a collar or harness. Some people prefer a good harness to a leash because it is more comfortable for the chihuahua puppy, being on its back instead of around the neck. I'd say it depends on your dog and what you prefer. Personally, I love harness because when I started to train my puppy, it used to jump all over the place, and when she got to the end of her leash, it gave a hard shock to her neck. With a harness, my puppy did not hurt her neck.

If your chihuahua puppy seams to be afraid of the leash, try indoor activities that fell good for the dog or put the leash beside its food bowl for a while. Your chihuahua puppy will see there is no danger and will come to like the leash.

The first walk
It does not take long before your chihuahua dog know that the sight of the leash means a walk outside! And it usually means that your chihuahua puppy get very excited. This is why you need to start leash training very quickly. But first, teach the sit and stay command to your chihuahua puppy. This way, you will be able to ask your chihuahua puppy to sit and stay while you put her leash on, making the start of the walk easier. ( if you don't know how to teach the basic commands to your puppy, you can read more about it or take a course).

The key to succesful leash training your chihuahua puppy is consistency and practice. Like verything else you try to teach to your puppy, she needs practice, which mean you need to do it over and over, a bit everyday.

Dog Training Tips: 12 Tips for a Well Behaved Dog

1) Start training your puppy early on. While old dogs can be taught new tricks, what's learned earliest, is often learned quickest and easiest. Moreover, the older the dog, the more bad habits will likely need to be "un-learned". When it comes to raising and training a dog, an ounce of problem prevention is certainly worth a pound of cure!

2) Train your dog gently and humanely, and whenever possible, teach him using positive, motivational methods. Keep obedience sessions upbeat so that the training process is enjoyable for all parties involved. If training your pooch is a drudgery, rev things up a bit, and try the "playtraining" approach: incorporate constructive, non-adversarial games (such as "Go Find", "Hide 'n' Seek", retrieving, etc.) into your training sessions.

3) Does your dog treat you like "hired help" at home? Does he treat you like a human gymnasium when you're sitting on the furniture? Does he beg at the table? Jump up on visitors? Demand your attention by annoying you to death? Ignore your commands? How well your dog responds to you at home affects his behavior outdoors as well. If your dog doesn't respond reliably to commands at home (where distractions are relatively minimal), he certainly won't respond to you properly outdoors where he's tempted by other dogs, pigeons, passersby, sidewalk food scraps, etc.

4) Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional.

5) One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a "bluff '. For instance, telling your dog to "Sit, sit, sit, sit!", is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single "Sit" command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.

6) Avoid giving your dog combined commands which are incompatible. Combined commands such as "sit-down" can confuse your dog. Using this example, say either "sit" or "down". The command "sit-down" simply doesn't exist.

7) When giving your dog a command, avoid using a loud voice. Even if your dog is especially independent/unresponsive, your tone of voice when issuing an obedience command such as "sit","down" or ""stay", should be calm and authoritative, rather than harsh or loud.

NOTE: Many owners complain that their dogs are "stubborn", and that they "refuse to listen" when given a command. Before blaming the dog when he doesn't respond to a command, one must determine whether or not: a) the dog knows what the owner wants, b) he knows how to comply, c) he is not simply being unresponsive due to fear, stress or confusion.

8 ) Whenever possible, use your dog's name positively, rather than using it in conjunction to reprimands, warnings or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be a word he responds to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear.

9) Correct or, better yet, prevent the (mis)behavior, don't punish the dog. Teaching and communication is what it's all about, not getting even with your dog. If you're taking an "it's-you-against-your dog, whip 'em into shape" approach, you'll undermine your relationship, while missing out on all the fun that a motivational training approach can offer. Additionally, after-the-fact discipline does NOT work.

10) When training one's dog, whether praising or correcting, good timing is essential. Take the following example: You've prepared a platter of hors d'oeuvres for a small dinner party, which you've left on your kitchen counter. Your dog walks into the room and smells the hors d'oeuvres. He air-sniffs, then eyes the food, and is poised to jump up. This is the best, easiest and most effective time to correct your dog: before he's misbehaved, while he's thinking about jumping up to get the food.

11) Often, dog owners inadvertently reinforce their dogs' misbehavior, by giving their dogs lots of attention (albeit negative attention) when they misbehave. Needless to say, if your dog receives lots of attention and handling when he jumps up on you, that behavior is being reinforced, and is therefor likely to be repeated.

12) Keep a lid on your anger. Never train your dog when you're feeling grouchy or impatient. Earning your dog's respect is never accomplished by yelling, hitting, or handling your dog in a harsh manner. Moreover, studies have shown that fear and stress inhibit the learning process.

Dog Training - Basic Commands & Rules

Owners would like to have an obedient, calm and faithful dog because an obedient and trained dog is a happier dog, most unlikely to get into tussles with people or with other dogs. A well socialised and trained dog is more reliable and interacts so much better with family companion, especially in households with young children.

They are also less likely to suffer from behavioural problems such as unprovoked biting and vicious attacks on humans. Many communities require that the dogs living in their neighbourhoods be well trained, and for a good reason - especially for many breeds thought to have aggression and behaviour problems – dog breeds like Pit bulls and Rottweilers for instance.

When considering training your own dog or having someone else to help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered by your dog. These basic commands include:

* Sit – it is vital to train your dog to sit on command. Speak to it in a very firm and authoritative tone, otherwise your dog may not realise that you are serious or associate what you say with danger and discipline. Say it like you mean it. Start training early, when your dog is still a puppy. Make sure that you use the same gestures, body language, the same command words (i.e. “sit”, “roll over”, “come here”, “fetch” etc) consistently in order to allow the dog to associate these words or motions with what he is supposed to do. Practise, practise and practise.

* Heel – it is important to teach your dog to learn how to walk beside you on a loose leash, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind.

* Down – lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program. This is also to make sure that your dog obeys your order as the leader of the pack.

* No – make sure that you train your dog to respond to the word “No”. This, of all the command words, is the one word that all dogs MUST learn. Training your dog to respond to this word will stop your dog right in its track from doing what it is about to do, sometimes this could mean in life and death situations.

* Stay – a well trained dog should be able to remain where it is when this command word is used, no matter how excited or threatened it feels.

Dog training does much more than just to create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly could actually strengthen the bond between your dog and you and make it a much more fulfilling experience for both parties.

Dogs are by nature pack animals and they always look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. It is therefore crucial to establish yourself as the pack leader as early as possible to address dominance issues with your dog. The key to successful dog training is to set this right from the word go as failure to do so leads to all manners of behavioural problems.

A well-trained dog will respond properly to all the owner’s commands, and will not display anxiety, displeasure or confusion. A good dog training program will focus on allowing the dog to learn just what is expected of it, and will use positive reinforcement to reward desired behaviours. Routine and patience is the key to successfully training your dog to perform these commands correctly.

Ongoing obedience training is a great way to fulfil some of the dog’s own needs, including the need for exercise, the security that comes with knowing what is expected of it, a feeling of achievement, confidence building and bonding with its handler. Dog training also provides the dog a job to do and important goals to reach. Giving your dog a job to perform or challenges is more important than you may think. Dogs were originally bred by humans to do important work, such as herding sheep, guarding property and protecting people. Many dogs today have no important job to do which often lead to boredom and neurotic behaviours. This is especially important for high energy breeds like German Shepherds and Border Collies. Training sessions are a great way for these high energy dogs to use up their extra energy and simply to enjoy themselves. So incorporate lots of playtime into your dog’s training sessions and have fun!

By:Gerald McNicholl

How To Potty Train Your Puppy?

My dog was adorable during his days as a puppy, but of course, there were some moments when I didn’t think the same way. I remember perfectly how much I hated to discover that he was having his potty accidents in the living room, right on the carpet.

Yelling or punishing him would have been useless so, instead of doing any of that, I have decided that it was about time to train him to “go” outside. What I had to do first was to clean after my puppy and finding the product who would remove 100% the smell hasn’t been easy.

Why this has to be the first step? Because when dogs pee on one spot on the carpet, next times they feel like doing that, it will happen at the exactly same place. Their sense of smell is well developed and it’s the smell which tells them to “go” there. Using this tip when taking the puppy outside to pee or to poop is very important, because you have to take it at the same place every time.

Do not forget to say “go potty” before and while he is “going” and to praise him afterwards.

However, even after he learned to associate “go potty” with “going”, accidents happened and I even caught him in the act a few times. Punishing was out of the question because this only scares the puppy and he will get the message that is wrong for him to “go” in front of you. In this situation there is only one thing to be done: distract his attention by clapping your hands or doing any other noise. He will stop going and this way you can quickly take him outside. After he had finished up, he must be rewarded. That is why puppies need to be supervised!

But what was in fact causing him to “go” at night? In a way, puppies are just like kids, therefore they need a schedule when it comes to eating, drinking water, sleeping. Once I’ve stopped giving water to my puppy a few hours before his bedtime, he stopped peeing at night. Taking your puppy out after a nap – no matter the duration of it, or before playing with him it’s mandatory! Puppies also need to “go” 5 or 10 minutes after eating and drinking.

In order to prevent accidents from happening, it’s better to establish a feeding schedule and this way I knew exactly when he needed to potty.

Personally, I think that everything gets a lot easier when you train him to do some kind of signal whenever he needs to go out. I have heard that some pet owners use bells or other stuff similar to that, but I have trained my puppy to scratch at the door – and this is the most common signal. Another option, however not always possible, is a dog door, that way the puppy can go outside whenever he feels like it.

And one last thing: don’t forget to take your puppy outside first thing in the morning! He will not be able to hold all night.

Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/

Tips to Prevent Chewing and Biting in Puppies - Part 2

Your puppy will need chew toys that outlast his teeth and others that he can really get his teeth into. Add some squeaky toys, balls, tug-o-ropes, and whatever else you think your pup will enjoy that won't hurt him.

If your puppy chews on you or your clothing, make a loud noise, such as 'no', to get his attention, then remove whatever it is that he's chewing on. Promptly replace it with an appropriate toy for him to chew on and reward him when he does.

Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in young dogs is generally a form of social play. Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The first thing you must do is to provide your puppy with ample opportunity for play without biting. Social play with people could involve chase and retrieve games, as well as long walks or jogging. Although wrestling and tug of war games can be fun, they may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious. Puppies need to learn bite inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with they are littermates. It is one reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks and they have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood.

Tips to Prevent Chewing and Biting in Puppies - Part 1

Puppies naturally explore the world with their mouths. The tastes and textures of objects in their environment help them to learn about their world. They spend several months shedding their baby teeth and growing in their adult teeth. This stimulates them to chew and, thus, it is normal for them to chew. However, what puppies must learn is those things that are appropriate for them to chew on and those things that aren't.

The most important learning period for puppies occurs between the ages of 4 and 16 weeks. From birth to about 8 weeks, a puppy is mostly learning from his mother and littermates. The pup should also have generous amounts of gentle human handling during this time as this will help to prepare him for his new home.

A new puppy should not have free rein of the house at first. This is too confusing for him. Keep him mostly in a smaller, easily cleaned room such as a kitchen. Give him acceptable chew toys such as Kong toys, rawhides and nylabones. Do not give him discarded shoes or clothing. He can't differentiate between old and new clothing. Never strike or yell at your pup during this time because you will only frighten and confuse him and may create unwanted aggression.

10 Essential Puppy Training Tips

#1 - Start Training Early:
Puppies start to learn the moment they open their eyes and are most open to new experiences during the first four months. Start training your puppy the moment it is bought home. Good early habits endure and will result in a well behaved dog in the future.

#2 - Early Socialization:
Help ensure your puppy meet and socialize with as many people as possible during the first four months. Going on outdoor trips, visiting friends who own pets, and walking along busy streets should all be part of your puppy's education. These positive experiences will allow your puppy to be comfortable with humans and reduce the likelihood of any future behavior problems.

#3 - Mental And Physical Stimulation:
Every puppy thrives on both mental and physical stimulation. Exposing your puppy to new environments and experiences early can greatly enhance your dog's interest in learning new things. Puppy walks or games are great ways to stimulate your pet both mentally and physically. If actively stimulated, your puppy will become healthier and adept at learning new trainings faster. This will also help strengthen the bond between the both of you at the same time.

#4 - Hand Feed Your Puppy:
Whenever possible, hand feed your puppy. This teaches him/her to like human contact, even when your puppy is feeding from his food bowl. Not feeding from hand can lead your puppy to turn aggressive to whoever that tries to get near him/her while feeding.

#5 - Biting And Chewing:
Your puppy will certainly bite and chew while they play and investigate new things around them. If your puppy is teething; direct, encourage and reward your puppy to bite the right object (toy). Discourage and discipline by simply saying a firm "NO" and replace the object with the correct toy or training equipment.

#6 - Step-by-Step Training:
Always begin your puppy training at home where it is in a familiar environment and work on one new exercise, command or trick per training session. This will allow your puppy to learn, understand and familiarize each training better and faster. Trying to introducing multiple items at one session can confuse your dog and lead to a slower learning curve.

#7 - Best Time To Train:
Train your puppy when it is feeling hungry or before each of its meal. Your puppy will respond very well to food treats. This is especially useful if you are just starting out to train your puppy or you have certain difficulty with a particular command. Balance your rewards with praises and hugs so that your dog doesn't associate every reward with just food. Never begin any training with your puppy when you are feeling lousy or in a bad mood.

#8 - Housetraining:
Housebreak your puppy early by supervising and recognizing your puppy's body language such as circling or sniffing the floor. Take your puppy out every 45 minutes after eating or drinking as they tend to "let go" around this time. When it eliminates at the right location, praise and rewards your puppy so that it will associate eliminating outdoors as a positive experience.

#9 - Rewards And Punishment:
Different puppies learn at different speeds. Whenever your puppy obeys or performs to a certain command, praise and reward your dog immediately. This allows your puppy to associate learning with positive-ness and fun. Never use any physical corrections or harsh yelling when you puppy misbehave as this can cause fear and promote future aggressive behavior in your dog. Reprimand your dog by using a stern voice instead and only when you actually caught it misbehaving.

#10 - Training Sessions:
Train you puppy in short, frequent sessions. Puppies have a short attention span and will get easily distracted or bored. Train your puppy for ten minutes each session and then play with him/her with its favorite toy to stimulate your pup's learning process. Always end each training on a positive note with your puppy wanting more. This will allow your puppy to look forward to its next training session.

Train your dog to Sit!

The command Sit! would be one of the first and easiest you want your dog to learn and memorize.

Whenever a dog hears his feeding dish being handled, or his leash being taken from its place it knows what’s going to happen. So the Puppy is very early able to understand the connection food - cup, or walk – leash and anticipate the outcome. This is exactly what we are going to take advantage of.

The moment the Puppy sits down by himself we say “sit”. Repeatingly using the sit! command whenever the Puppy sits down will make your dog connect action and command. As with the cup and leash example the dog will sit down although the command is happening before the action taking place. Of course the Puppy will only sit down if not “disturbed” by something of major importance.

You may start to back your command after a few days of practice, by gently pushing your dog’s croup down with one hand and keeping his head up with the other. In doing so, we repeat the command "sit", "sit" with a comforting voice. Should the dog sit for about 5 seconds, this should be followed by exuberant praise and visible exaltation.
Your body language and voice must be a clear signal to your dog, that it has just achieved something world-shaking.

Do not start to train any other commands in that period, and don’t exercise the sit! command 5 times in a row! Let some time go by and don’t forget the celebration whenever it works out. Slowly increase the complicacy: Both of you are laying on the floor playing and out of the sky there comes the command.

Make sure to be consequent! Never repeat your command! Enforce the execution right after the first command! Support your verbal command with a precise hand signal. As soon as this works, try just calling the dog by its name and the use of the hand signal only the moment the dog is looking at you.

The next steps are to train the sit! command at close range. Use a light leash starting from about 1-2 yards and keep increasing the distance. At this point I suggest introducing your dog to a new kind of signal, the dog whistle, also known as silent whistle. There might come situations in your dog’s life, where your verbal commands might not be heard because of excessive noise or simply the distance. The dog whistle is the perfect tool in those situations as it has a long distance effect.

Choose a unique signal for this command and start using it in exchange to your verbal command. Make sure that this signal is clearly distinguishable for your dog from all other signals you plan to use for further commands.

How To Stop A Puppy From Biting

Most normal puppies will bite and chew. While you cannot completely erase this
behavior, they can regulate it and influence the puppy’s behavior. To control your puppy’s biting behavior, you should understand the reason behind it. Overall, puppy’s bite and chew because it is a learned behavior; however, learned behaviors can be changed.

Puppies learn biting behavior from his mother at younger age. Young puppies often play with their mouths by grabbing or biting one another. Controlling this learned behavior requires training your puppy because biting and chewing can be harmful for your family and friends.

How to train your puppy to stop biting

*Understand “bite inhibition.” Bite inhibition is the process of making your puppy know the difference between people and playmates. You need to train her and make her understand that biting hurts people whenever she tries to do it.

*Discover the reason behind her biting. One explanation may be anxiety or your aggressive behavior. You need to have patience while training your puppy. You should earn trust and socialize in a proper manner before your puppy is 4 months to teach her biting control. If your puppy trusts and respects you, the biting behavior can be alleviated. However, slapping or kicking your puppy for her biting behavior is not
the solution. Thes actions will lead to mistrust and disrespect and may make the puppy more eager to bite rather than control it.

*Allow plenty of time for your puppy to socialize with other puppies and dogs. Socialization will teach her restrain the biting behavior.

*Speak in firm tone whenever your puppy bites. A firm tone can minimize the intensity and frequency of her biting behavior.

*Avoid aggressive behavior such as yelling at or hitting your pupply. Yelling or hitting your puppy because of her the biting behavior minimizes your ability to alleviate her biting control. When a puppy does something right or wrong, you should show it by your behavior. For example, if your puppy does something right, then you should reward her. On balance, if she does something wrong such as engaging in biting
behavior, then you should show that you are unhappy by disengaging from her..

Every puppy behaves differently. Therefore, you cannot expect to use the same techniques to train two different puppies. You must adapt your training techniques based on the puppy’s behavior. Often, you need to be experimental and use trial-and-error to determine the best training technique to control the puppy’s biting behavior.

Only you truly know your puppy, so you will need to develop your own training techniques. Adapting continuous changes in your techniques is a good idea. Your puppy may try to gain your attention by nipping you with a “gentle bite.” At times nipping can also cause irritation, and you should make your puppy understand you don’t like this behavior by not responding to her nipping. Because biting can be harmful and dangerous to you and your family, you must adapt the necessary training
techniques to stop the puppy from biting.

Most normal puppies will bite and chew. While you cannot completely erase this behavior, they can regulate it and influence the puppy’s behavior. To control your puppy’s biting behavior, you should understand the reason behind it. Overall, puppy’s bite and chew because it is a learned behavior; however, learned behaviors can be changed.

Puppies learn biting behavior from his mother at younger age. Young puppies often play with their mouths by grabbing or biting one another. Controlling this learned behavior requires training your puppy because biting and chewing can be harmful for your family and friends.

Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/

Dog Training Basics ? Training the New Puppy

Bringing home a new puppy is always an exciting time for the entire family. Getting that new puppy off the right start with proper training is very important to making that puppy a valued member of his human family. There are a number of talents that every new puppy must master, including going up and down the stairs, and how to accept a new collar as if she?s worn it her entire life.

It is best to introduce a new puppy to the household when everyone in the family is present, and when the household is as calm as possible. That is why animal care experts discourage parents from giving puppies and kittens as holiday presents. The holiday season is typically much too busy, with far too many distractions, for a young puppy or kitten to get the attention it needs. It is best to wait until the holidays have passed before introducing the new family member.

Once the puppy is part of the household, there are some things he or she will need to learn. One of the first challenges of a multi-story home will be learning to climb up and down the stair. Many puppies are afraid of stairs, and that usually means that they do not know how to climb them properly. It is important for the puppy?s owner to slowly build the confidence of the dog, starting off at the bottom of the stairs. In general, a wide stairway will probably be less frightening to the puppy.

To build confidence, the owner should go up the first step, then encourage the puppy to join them, using their voice, treats or a toy. After the puppy has joined you on the first stair, go back down and repeat the process until the puppy will go up that step on his own. It is important to build confidence slowly and not rush the process. Taking a one step at a time approach is the best way to teach the puppy to not be afraid of stairs.

Another thing every new puppy must learn is how to accept the collar. Learning to wear a collar is important to every dog, but many puppies are baffled, frightened and bewildered by this new piece of equipment. Many puppies constantly try to remove their new collar by pawing and pulling at it.

Fit is important when choosing a collar for your new puppy. A properly fitted collar, chosen for your puppy?s size, is more likely to be comfortable and accepted. While choke collars, slip collars and training collars can be good training aids, they should never be used as a substitute for a sturdy buckle type collar. And of course that collar should have an identification tag and license attached. This identification will be vital in having your puppy returned if she becomes separated from you.

The best way to introduce the puppy to the collar is to simply put the collar on and allow her to squirm, jump, roll and paw at the color to her heart?s content. It is important to not encourage this behavior by trying to soothe the puppy, but it is just as important not to punish or reprimand the puppy. The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and them her work through her issues with the collar on her own. Introducing distractions, such as food, toys or playing, is a good way to get the puppy used to the color. Getting the puppy to play, eat and drink while wearing the collar is a great way to get her used to it. After a few days, most puppies will not even know they are wearing a collar.

Article Source Dog News Center and Article Directory

3 Important Things to Remember when Training your Puppy

There are as many ways to raise a puppy as there are to raising a child. In fact, one way per family in general! But most of us agree that when it comes to children, certain things are universal and undisputed. Here are three things that a lot of people just do not think of when it comes to raising their dogs, however. How many times have we heard, "My dog just won't listen to me", or "He just won't behave!" 


1. Dogs do not understand English until we teach them.

The thing we all love about puppies the most is the way they live for us, the way they focus all they have on us, the way our lives become theirs. in the beginning, they study us to learn our body language, our facial expressions and our language. Until we teach them the English language, it's all they have. If we say, "Wanna go out?" one day, "Have to go potty?" the next day, and, "Hafta pee?" the third day, if they DO figure out what we want, it is because we have picked up the leash and moved toward the door with a happy face! If you want to speed up his training by three-fold, teach him YOUR language. Pick a command for EACH behavior and stick with it. Tell all in your family to use the same words and commands, and your puppy will amaze you at how much faster he learns.

2. A young puppy's metabolism is racing along faster than we think.
The younger your puppy is, the faster he is growing, the more food and water he needs to fuel his metabolism, and the more often he has to go potty. Do not punish your puppy when he makes a house-breaking mistake. These are YOUR fault. Your puppy's age in weeks and his breed size determine how often he must go out. Once an hour is not too often for a large 6-week old puppy, especially if it is summertime. Dogs love the exciting smells outdoors, so there is no excuse to not have him housebroken by 7-8 weeks of age. Right after a nap, after he eats and after grooming are the key times, and he will signal you. If he is happily chewing a toy and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! And every time he goes potty outside
, praise him to high heaven! "What a good BOYY!", "GOOD go potty!" and the like. Dogs love our happy faces, and they will do anything to get it.

3. Dogs live for our facial expressions and body language.

Because of this, the worst punishment you ever need to give your dog is a scowl and to turn away from him. You can see his tail fall down and his face get so sad. He will learn the lesson, I guarantee it. But his attention span is only 3-5 minutes, so do not scorn him any longer. Love him up and give him your happy face again. Physical punishment is never necessary. Use consistent commands and loving praise and he will know what you want of him before you know. He will become a master of your body language and facial expressions in no time at all.

Naturally there are many aspects of training your puppy well. Loving kindness works just as well for puppies as it does with children, creating a happy, well-adjusted and obedient dog for life. These three important tips, used consistently with confidence, will start him well on his way.

Dy Witt has shown, bred and trained standard poodles for 25 years. Her puppies' new vets and groomers sent word back that they had never worked on such well-adjusted dogs. To read more free articles and all about her new dog training ebook, visit: http://www.DogTraining15MinsADay.com 

Article Source Dog News Center and Article Directory http://www.dognewscenter.com